Retinol v Retinoid - Everything you need to know
The game of skincare is always changing and there are new ingredients surfacing all the time that claim to help with this, that and the other. Many moons ago I hadn’t heard of retinol, let alone retinal and retinoid - I'm now very grateful that I know it, understand it and use it!
If you’re researching retinol for the first time and you see all the different variations that come up, you might think, how do I know the difference when it comes to retinol v retinoid? I'm here to make it that little bit easier!
Let's just start by explaining how amazing retinol is in general! If some of your skincare concerns include pore size, fine line and wrinkles, then you may want to throw a retinol into your online basket! Retinol is a form of Vitamin A, a powerhouse ingredient that promotes skin renewal. It also helps lessen the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and it improves any sun damage you may have.
What is a Retinoid?
Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives which are then converted into retinoic acid to use in skincare and they can tackle everything from pigmentation to acne and fine lines. Their ability to do this is by enhancing the turnover rate of skin cells, increasing the speed at which new cell growth occurs and essentially changing how your skin cells function. This all enables the top layer of your skin to thicken.
Over time our skin proteins like collagen and elastin get thinner from aging - both retinol and retinoids work deep into your skin’s dermis to stimulate the production of them both. Retinoids also tackle sun damage and decreases the appearance of pores by removing the bacteria that contributes to it and to acne breakouts.
One of the most powerful retinoids - you may have heard of it - tretinoin - is only available by prescription and this is due to its higher strength of retinoic acid. Most retinoids come as creams but you can for example have it in a form of oral medication - formally known as Accutane (isotretinoin) which helps treat severe acne -it's actually a retinoid!
What is a Retinol?
Retinol is a type of Retinoid, used mainly in over-the-counter products we are familiar with, instead of prescription medications. Retinol is still super effective but the key difference between the two are the strengths. Retinols contain a lower concentration of the active retinoic acid and prescription retinoids contain higher strengths.
Retinols produce amazing results, they just take longer. Even though it may take a bit longer, on the upside they tend to cause fewer side effects and no prescription is needed. Order straight off Sephora and don’t look back.
So, Retinoid v Retinol - which one should you use?
I will start by saying - consider your skin type and if you are just starting out with this then patch test your skin because it may irritate your skin - after all it is an acid. As a good starting point after patch testing I would begin with a less powerful strength, especially if you have sensitive skin.
My skin tolerates it well but I still started off with a low strength just to avoid any possible side effects. I would then slowly build up your tolerance over time and you can do this by using it twice a week for two weeks, every other night for the next two weeks and then every night.
If obviously you have a huge concern with your skin, hoping for faster improvements or you think you may need something stronger that’s only available on prescription, speak to your doctor or dermatologist who can best advise you.
If you’re sticking with over-the-counter retinols, which is what I use, just bare in mind - results are not overnight. You have to be patient to see results, it can take from a few weeks to 6 months to notice a difference - but it’s so worth it!
Speaking of side effects..
Don’t get scared honestly, it’s not that bad!
But I am here to keep it real with you guys, although it's honestly not that bad, retinoids can sometimes cause some side effects. This ranges from mild irritation, redness and flaking to sun sensitivity. You might be thinking - why would I use it if this can happen? Although they can be common side effects, sometimes these signs suggest product overuse - you really don’t need a huge amount of product when applying!
In addition, if you are diving in head first at a high strength then there is a greater chance of your skin having these side effects. My advice - ease your way into usage, this reduces the chances of experiencing these side effects.
Who can’t use Retinoids and Retinols?
As already mentioned, know your skin type and pay attention to how your skin tolerates it. Most skin types can tolerate a retinol, you just have to choose the right product for your skin. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, avoid using retinoids altogether - see my blog on retinol alternatives!
When and how to use them
As already mentioned on how to best avoid side effects, this ties into how often you should be using them. Start off with twice a week for two weeks - if your skin doesn’t get irritated or have a reaction you can then increase this to every other night, for the next two weeks. By that point if your skin is still tolerating it well you can use it every night.
You don’t need a lot of product, using too much can cause the reaction that we don’t want! Use a pea size amount working outwards from the middle of your face to cover your cheeks, nose, chin, forehead and neck - yes it works for the neck too! The skin around the eye area is thin and delicate, I don't personally apply it there because it has caused dryness in the past for me. Then apply your moisturizer on top!
I recommend using your retinoids/retinols in your nighttime routine, leave it for 20 minutes to really seep into your skin and then continue with the rest of your routine. If you are using a low concentration retinol in your daytime routine, make sure you follow this up with SPF because our skin can be quite sensitive after using retinol and sunlight can also reduce its power - we should be applying SPF everyday regardless!
The bottom line on Retinoid v Retinol
I know they sound the same but they’re not - they’re related but different! How I like to remember the difference between the two is:
Retinoid - prescription strength
Retinol - over the counter products
You might be asking yourself what age do I start? And to that I would say…the sooner the better! Our skin deserves to be looked after and honestly you’ll be glad that you introduced it into your skincare routine (if you haven’t already). There is nothing not to love about retinoids and retinols, they offer so many skin benefits from improving breakouts and hyperpigmentation, to reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. Since I started using it, I have never looked back!
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